Just inland in the villages above Almeria, there were cave dwellers: caves had been cut or enlarged in the rubbly biscuit-coloured hills and house fronts fixed to the cave entrances. The slopes were devoid of trees. It was a land of little rain, and so few people, of such dust and emptiness, that it could have been the far west of the United States - Arizona or New Mexico. When I remarked on this to a Spaniard in Almeria he told me that it had been the location for many of Sergio Leone's so-called spaghetti westerns.
Almost in sight of the overbuilt coast, this country was lovely in its grandeur and in its sunlight and emptiness, its white huts and grazing goats, its houses of stacked stone, some with grape arbors and others hung with garlands of drying red peppers, shielded by stands of pine or clusters of broom; olive pickers riding in the backs of trucks, their faces masked against the dusk, and elderly shepherds in blue suits in postures so intense they seemed to be preaching to their flocks. Beyond a sun-baked ravine there were thirty black goats in a field and a mass of swallows diving into a small bush...
Paul Theroux from "The Pillars of Hercules" in which he traveled all the way up the Spanish coast on his trip around the Mediterranean.