A guide to food in Spain
escabeche: a traditional way of preserving game and fish is now rather a delicacy.
Normally used with trout (here that means brown trout, even though they may be farmed they have a much better flavour and moister texture that the ubiquitous pink fleshed rainbow). The fish are cooked in olive oil. When the cooked fish are removed, a marinade is made by the addition of garlic, vinegar and herbs to the cooking oil. It is left for at least twenty-four hours and served cold. Quails, rabbit and other game are also served in this way, surprisingly the delicate flavour of the fish or meat survives the strong marinade. Escabeche is a popular tapas with a variety of ingredients, especially mussels.
By Simon Rice
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